30 Jan 2025

Addressing the Dress Code

Many of us are familiar with the strict guidelines that accompany dress codes such as ‘white tie’, ‘black tie’ or ‘morning dress’. These three dress codes are encountered at weddings or formal events and the guests can rejoice in a straightforward instruction and can simply follow the ‘uniform’ (especially the men) without further ado.

The next two tiers of formality are much more problematic. We hope we will address any confusion below, and would remind party guests that, if you are confused by the dress code, you should not simply opt out and come in your jeans and trainers. The fact that your host has added a dress code indicates that there is a clear aspiration for the event, and a refusal to comply looks rude and contemptuous. If you’re confused, consult with fellow-guests, or ask your host for clarification – at least it shows that you care.

Lounge Suits for Men

‘Lounge suits’ is an expression that is only seen on invitations. It derives from the 19th century, when business attire was much more formal, and men wore long, knee-length jackets. A more casual suit with a short jacket, was worn at home, and called a ‘lounge suit’. This distinction no longer applies, and lounge suits are simply suits, of the sort worn in a formal business context.

This dress code is used for occasions with various degrees of formality and means a suit worn with a shirt and tie. Lounge suits are worn for most business events, both daytime and evening, and for many social events such as lunches, receptions, dinners, weddings, christenings and funerals. They may be worn at dinner parties, especially when people come direct from work.

A three-piece suit consists of a single-breasted jacket, a single- or double-breasted waistcoat, the bottom button is always left undone. A two-piece suit consists of single-breasted or double-breasted jacket with trousers (no waistcoat). Belts should not be worn with a waistcoat or double-breasted suit.

To Tie or Not to Tie?

A shirt with a turndown (not button-down) collar should be worn with a tie and the top button of the shirt must be done up.

Ties are undoubtedly formal and conventional, and many men these days are eschewing the tie with their business suit to appear more approachable and easy-going (many politicians have adopted this habit for obvious reasons).

Nevertheless, the tie is a default element of the suit ensemble and, if you are requested to wear a lounge suit, it would be sensible to adhere to the convention and wear a tie. If you find yourself at a much more casual occasion than you had been led to expect, it is easy to remove your tie and undo your top button – it is always sensible to err on the side of formality, and to adjust if necessary.

If you are wearing a tie, go for a classic four-in hand or half-Windsor knot. Full Windsor knots are bulky and should be avoided.

Lounge Suits for Women

Men’s clothing codes are prescriptive and easy to follow; it is much more challenging for women to get it right. If you are invited to a ‘lounge suits’ events, the best guidance is to think in terms of formal business attire. That means tailored dresses and matching jackets, a smart tailored day dress, a trouser suit, or a skirt and tailored jacket or coat.

If you’re going to a lounge suits event straight from work, you can dress up your usual office wear by swapping low heels for high-heeled shoes and replacing your everyday handbag with a small evening bag. Bold accessories, such as a striking necklace or earrings or a glamorous silk scarf, will pep up your outfit and make it look less mundane.

The main aim is to look chic and reasonably formal; reserve your more creative dressing for ‘smart casual’ events, which are described below.

Smart Casual

This most ambiguous of dress codes is likely to cause the most consternation. It is certainly vague and contradictory (can casual truly be smart?), but in essence it is simply a plea from a host to guests requesting them not to turn up in everyday ‘leisure’ clothes – trainers, jogging pants, sweatshirts, hoodies, beachwear, flip-flops etc. Once again, you are being requested to make some sort of effort, but the code gives you plenty of leeway and room for creativity. 

When you’re deciding what to wear, think carefully about the invitation, the venue, the time of day and the nature of the event. If you have received a printed invitation, then the event is probably at the formal end of the spectrum, so adjust your plans accordingly.

•Formal Smart Casual for Men

The best option is to wear a jacket or blazer, which you can team up with chinos or tailored trousers, and an open-necked shirt with a collar (ties are generally not necessary). Wear loafers, brogues or lace-ups, not trainers or sandals. Sweaters are fine if it is cold. If you’re outside in winter, opt for an overcoat rather than an anorak or parka. If you want to ring the changes, you could choose a Nehru jacket or a velvet jacket and accessorise it with a striking patterned shirt.

•Informal Smart Casual for Men

This is getting very close to everyday clothing but make it a rule that you change your clothes for the event and ensure that everything you wear is laundered and at the smarter end of the spectrum. So, if you decide to wear jeans, choose a clean dark-coloured, well-fitting pair, rather than a baggy, faded pair with holes and frayed hems. Opt for a polo shirt or colourful printed shirt, rather than a collarless t-shirt, or pair a jacket with a plain black or white t-shirt and wear smart trainers or deck shoes rather than flip-flops or sandals.

•Formal Smart Casual for Women

For daytime parties, you can discard the tailored attire recommended for the Lounge Suits dress code, and opt for dresses, or skirts and trousers paired with silk or printed shirts, or chic cardigans. It’s fine to wear jeans, as long as they’re tailored and well-fitted – it’s a good idea to offset their informality with a tailored jacket and smart accessories. Discard the high-heels and opt for kitten heel, flats or loafers.

For evening parties, you may choose to dress up your look, with a more decorative cocktail-style dress, evening-stye trousers, statement jewellery and higher heels.

This is a dress code you can really enjoy – indulge in your love of colour, texture, striking patterns and flowing shapes, without the restraints of the more formal dress codes.

•Informal Smart Casual for Women

There is not much difference between these two dress codes and in general the daytime recommendations above would still be applicable. However, if you feel uncertain, be prepared to adjust your outfit at the spur of the moment. You could always substitute your kitten heels for sandals, put on a cardigan instead of a tailored jacket, or discard a flamboyant necklace, if you feel a tad over-dressed. It’s generally easier to deconstruct an over-smart outfit than dress up an overly informal outfit at the last moment, so err on the side of formality. Even if you are more over-dressed than your fellow partygoers, your host will appreciate the fact that you have made an effort.

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