Greetings are often lengthy, with small talk about family and work forming an essential part. Men will shake hands with other men and are often affectionate with one another, kissing each other on both cheeks, putting their arms round each other’s shoulders or holding hands during a conversation. After shaking hands, place your right hand over your heart for a moment.
Women will often kiss another woman three or four times. A devout Muslim woman will not shake hands with a man, so always allow the woman to make the first move. Equally, a western woman should not extend her hand to a devout Muslim man.
When joining a group of people, shake hands with everyone, starting with the person on your right and then working your way round from right to left. When you leave, say goodbye to each person individually.
Western men should be cautious about meeting or making friends with women. Although Morocco appears to be fairly westernised, old habits die hard and Muslim women may not be accustomed to having male friends. This is less true of younger people, who may greet friends of the opposite sex with a kiss and have no problem with shaking hands with strangers of the opposite sex.
Unlike other Muslim countries, declining an invitation to a Moroccan’s house will not be regarded as rude. If you accept, take your host a small gift – preferably something from your own country (e.g. confectionery or stationery), which will be seen as exotic, or flowers or pastries. A small gift to the children of the family will be well received. In general, gifts will not be opened in your presence.
Be careful not to insult or embarrass Moroccans since upholding family honour and avoiding shame (hshuma, which is pronounced ‘shooma’) is very important to them. Be aware that you may be misled by people who will say ‘yes’ or lie to you out of a desire not to disappoint or embarrass you.
If you find yourself being subjected to inappropriate sexual advances, which unfortunately can be a problem in Morocco, you can use hshuma to your advantage by shouting ‘Hshuma’ and threatening the perpetrator with shame. To say ‘Go to your mother!’ is a real insult and reminds a man of the hshuma his mother would feel if she knew what her son was doing.
Although Morocco is one of the most liberal Muslim societies in the world, it is nonetheless wise for visitors to be respectful of Islam at all times. While harmony and modesty are highly valued, politeness is not a priority to Moroccans so do not be surprised if you see them treating waiters or shopkeepers with scant respect. Politeness in visitors, however, will be much appreciated.
Staring at strangers or approaching them is not considered rude by Moroccans, and you will find it difficult to avoid being approached on the street. The more you try to blend in, the less attention you will receive.
Bartering in Morocco is an art form. Begin by not showing interest in anything, particularly in the item you really want. Instead, express a casual interest in other items, preferably cheaper than the one you want. This will give you an idea of prices.
Continue to look at things, then ask the shopkeeper the price of the item you want. His first price will generally be two to three times more than the one he is willing to accept. You now offer half or a third of that price, then wait for the histrionics as he says that is far too little. He will then suggest a slightly lower price than his original offer. You then offer a little more than your original offer, and so the process continues until the price comes close to what he will sell it for.
When he asks you for your best price, give it – or slightly below it. Once an agreement is reached, you will shake hands and possibly partake of some mint tea if you have spent a lot of money. A golden rule is that you never refuse to buy once you have agreed a price.
Foreign women find there are few taboos in Morocco – for instance, it is permissible to smoke in public. But if foreign women are hassled in the street it is generally because of the way they are dressed. So dress modestly in flowing dresses or baggy trousers, cover any tattoos and do not wear too much jewellery. As long as these rules are followed, casual western dress is acceptable. Covering your head loosely with a scarf is a good way of becoming invisible – remember covering up does not mean that you have to dress dowdily: hijab wearers are often dedicated followers of fashion.
In general men should wear trousers and a collared shirt when in towns or cities; shorts are not considered appropriate wear for adult men.
Moroccans call their friends on their mobile phones but hang up before it is answered so that the number registers on the recipient’s phone. Called a ‘beep aliyah’, it is a simple and free way of telling someone you are thinking about them. Sending one in return is appropriate.
Dress smartly and conservatively for meetings and arrive on time. Moroccans will judge business associates on their dress and appearance. Men should wear dark suits, while women should wear dark trouser suits or dresses with long sleeves. It is advisable to use ‘Mr’ and ‘Mrs’ unless invited to use first names.
Devote some time to social pleasantries and to getting to know your hosts. Business meetings may be protracted and animated – it is not considered rude to interrupt, so be ready to go with the flow.
Be subtle in your negotiating style – Moroccans are discomforted by hard selling or confrontations. Don’t try to rush proceedings and be prepared for protracted bargaining. Decision-making is slow and hierarchical, and frequently drawn out by Morocco’s complex bureaucracy. Be aware that most business conducted in Morocco is in French, so you might need to provide an interpreter.
Moroccans are keen to mix hospitality with business, so you might find yourself invited to a leisurely lunch. At the very least you will be plied with mint tea, which is a universal demonstration of hospitality in Morocco.
There is no formal protocol relating to business cards, but it might be wise to have your card translated into French or Arabic.
If you are invited to dine in a traditional household, no women will be present during the meal, although this is increasingly rare in Morocco. Once seated, coffee, tea, milk and dates may be served. After a while it is appropriate to mention food or hunger as this indicates to the host that the meal may begin. Diners wash their hands first, either at a sink or in a basin that is passed round. Hold your hands over the basin while your host pours water over them from a kettle. Use the soap and towel provided.
Do not start eating until the eldest or most senior person has blessed the food or begins to eat. If you are not provided with western-style cutlery (very common in more touristy areas) use your right hand to eat, although in urban areas – if you are eating from your own plate – it is almost universally acceptable to use either or both hands. Traditionally, the food is eaten by hand and scooped up from a communal dish or tajine. Alternatively, use a piece of bread to scoop or soak up the food.
Always take food from the section of the communal bowl directly in front of you rather than reaching across to someone else’s portion, which is considered rude. Besides, as the guest, the choicest cuts will generally have been put in your part of the dish. ‘Choicest’ can include the chicken’s liver or heart, so if there is something you are unable to stomach, simply apologise and say that you are not used to eating such things.
Burping is acceptable, but try not to wipe your hands on a napkin. If you must, do it discreetly. Remember that the hand-washing process will be repeated after the meal. Water is often drunk from a communal glass, so if you want a glass of your own, ask for a soft drink. Always compliment your host on the food. If you have to leave soon after eating, it is best to warn your host in advance as it is considered polite to linger for some time after a meal and a sudden departure will not be well received.
In cafés it is the duty of the host to pay for guests. Even if it was you who invited them, some Moroccans will still maintain that you are their guest. It is rude to insist on paying or to surreptitiously pay the waiter.
In restaurants, tip ten to 15 per cent and give small change everywhere else. It is a good idea to tip tour guides, petrol station attendants, and porters who load your luggage on or off the bus. In the larger cities, it is usually advisable to use the percentage rule to tip taxi drivers.
