The opening of the red grouse shooting season on 12 August is famously called the ‘Glorious Twelfth’. In the days and weeks that follow, these lean and tasty birds are in demand as cooks and restaurants make the most of this seasonal treat.

A Shooting Party

Shooting birds such as pheasants for sport became popular during the Regency period, following the invention of the percussion cap gun. Landowners began to shape their terrain to encourage game shooting, creating woods and covets. By the mid-19th century, the arrival of the breech loading shotgun, which enabled sportsmen to kill a large number of gamebirds in relatively quick succession, played a significant role in the development of the driven shoot.

Driven game shooting had been a minority recreation until 1840 when Queen Victoria married Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. The prince, who had experienced large-scale shoots held in his German homeland, popularised driven game shooting by turning the royal estate at Windsor into a massive game-park. Inevitably, wealthy sportsmen, particularly younger men, soon began to follow the royal example, establishing driven shoots – often in the hope of attracting Prince Albert and acquiring social prestige as a result.

Pheasant and partridge shooting was predominantly the preserve of the landowner and his invited guests, whereas from the 1870s onwards, grouse shooting became increasingly commercialised, with many landowners letting out their moors to wealthy businessman and enthusiasts. The growing railway network greatly facilitated the transport of sportsmen to the grouse moors in the Scottish Highlands and the uplands of northern England, where the elusive grouse is to be found.

Edwardian shooting parties, held in August and September, were a combination of country house party and social event. Wives accompanied their husbands, but had to amuse themselves in the morning, when the men were shooting. Sometimes, they went and joined the men for lunch, which was served in a draughty tent, or in the open air. After lunch, they frequently joined their husbands, standing by their side for the afternoon’s shooting, which must have been an intensely boring and uncomfortable experience. More dedicated sportsmen despised the distraction of the ladies, and preferred to stay out, unattended, for the entire day. They would probably shoot for several consecutive days and then enjoy a couple of idle days, where they reverted to more traditional country house pursuits, such as going out on expeditions and picnics or visiting neighbours.

Following the example of King Edward VII, who was a dedicated sportsman, Edwardian gentlemen became compulsive fans of shooting, and their participation in the sport became a sign of their social standing. Few could match the King’s performance; in one day at the turn of the century he is said to have hosted a shoot where he and nine others killed 1,300 birds in a single day.

Procuring your Grouse

These days, you do not have to procure your grouse through skilled marksmanship. They are available from good supermarkets or butchers and game dealers, local estate and farm shops, or even ordered online.

It is usual to buy the birds ‘oven-ready’ but check them for age and quality. Young birds should be fresh-smelling, firm-breasted and sharp-clawed, with a pliable beak, legs and feet. They should also be plump and moist, with unblemished skin.

Young birds are best roasted; older birds can be touch and are usually braised or used in rich casseroles, flavoured with thyme and red wine. You should allow a bird per person.

A Feast of Grouse

Cooking your Grouse

•Wipe out the inside of the cavity, stuff with some sprigs of thyme, and season inside and out.

•Tie the legs with string and, as an optional extra to protect the breast meat, place a couple of rashers of bacon around the bird.

•Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. Cooking times vary according to the age of the bird: young ones take approximately 15-20 minutes, older birds can take a little longer. If you choose to brown your birds first on the stovetop in melted butter, then reduce the cooking time to 10 minutes.

Serving the bird

•Grouse should be served rare; the breast meat should be springy but not too soft. Always allow the meat to rest for at least ten minutes before serving.

•Grouse is traditionally served with gravy (made from the cooking juices), bread sauce, redcurrant sauce, game chips or game crumbs. A generous garnish of watercress is a classic accompaniment.

•Purists often cook the grouse liver inside the cavity of the bird and spread it, like pâté, on a little crouton and serve it with the roast.

•Grouse is best suited to red wine; try a Burgundy (such as Gevrey-Cahambertin) or a northern Rhone (such as Côte Rhôtie).

Chips and Crumbs

Game chips and game crumbs are a traditional accompaniment to classic roast grouse. To make game chips, cut a large potato (Maris Piper works well) into very thin slices, preferably using a mandolin. Gently heat some oil and, when hot, fry the potato slices for three to four minutes, until crisp and golden. Drain on a piece of kitchen roll and season with salt. For game crumbs, fry two handfuls of white breadcrumbs in six tablespoons of butter until they are crisp and golden.

Vegetarian or Vegan Guests?

You may delight in this gamey delicacy and regard it as a huge treat, but you can never assume all your guests will be like-minded. If a guest informs you that they are vegetarian or vegan, resist the temptation to reproach them or regale them with tales of shooting prowess. As a good host, you must cater for them as generously and with as little fuss as possible. If you are making game chips or crumbs, they will be perfectly palatable for everyone; you can pan fry a fillet of fish for pescatarians or create a delicious vegetable and lentil casserole, which you can re-heat gently in the bottom of the oven while you are roasting your grouse.

Top: Matthew Dubourg, 'Grouse Shooting', aquatint, 1822